Tete Jaune Cache

Following a recommendation by Dorthe and Andre, who manage the Super 8 Motel in Valemount, we decided to make the short cycle to Tete Jeune Cache, a mere 20km away.  They assured us that the setting for the Tete Jaune Lodge was lovely.  Oh they were absolutely right!

The added benefit was the journey was so short there was no need for Susan to make up some bagel concoction (see below for explanation). Result for both of us!

Our room at the Lodge overlooks the mighty Fraser River and surrounded by mountains.  The place is alive with hummingbirds and they are amazing - birds that fly like bees!  You can keep your hotels overlooking sunset beaches -they don't compare to this.  Mind you, I would say that as I hate sand getting in my socks and sandals :)

That evening we had a lovely meal at the restaurant and were joined by Dorthe and Andre who were great company.  Everybody we meet in BC are very friendly.  

The following day, Dan, who is care-taking the Lodge, took us in a drive around the surrounding countryside. Thanks Dan. 

Finally, as a footnote, if you are sharp you will already have noticed that we have been cycling along the Yellowhead Highway and now here we are at Tete Jeaune Cache!  It's not a coincidence.  Tete Jaune was actually named after a fur trader, Pierre Bostonaise, in the 1800's.  He worked for The Hudson Bay Company and was nicknamed 'Tete Jaune' because of his blonde hair.  The Yellowhead Highway was named after him.  If you didn't notice the connection then you're probably still sharp and had just lost interest in reading this blog. 

Valemount

Leaving Blue River we set off for Valemount, the next town along the Yelllowhead Highway.  The scenery was spectacular and, unfortunately, so were the headwinds.  It was a long struggle to pedal up the hills and the wind meant that it was also a long struggle to pedal down the hills.  If we had stopped peddling altogether I think we would have gone backwards all the way to Blue River again.  

In this part of British Columbia there are no shops, services or anything in between the towns.  So we carry food and water for the day.  Today we were having blueberry bagels for lunch.  We carry bagels because they don't go stale.  In fact, bagels are actually stale when you buy them.  I've tried bagels all over the world and even freshly baked ones - they are always stale.  However, Susan made a great effort to make them more interesting by spreading on layers of cream cheese and jam.  They were certainly interesting but that's all I could really say about them without swearing and being unkind :)

Thankfully, the wind lessened mid afternoon and the last 24km was downhill and flat.  We flew into town and booked into the Super 8 Motel.  We then had a 2km walk to get some beer - essential carbohydrate intake.

The following day was another rest day.  We are ahead of schedule as our bookings for the hostel in Jasper and motels along the Icefield Parkway do not start until the 11th May.  Cycling in the Parkway is neither recommended nor generally possible before this time.  It's not uncommon for it to snow even in summer. 

Valemount is a lovely town surrounded by snow capped mountains.  Like most towns in the part of the world they are in transition and coming to terms with the decline of logging, the principal industry and source of employment. 

Blue River

Continuing to head north on the Yellowhead Highway we left Avola and had a short days cycle to Blue River.  No cold feet today courtesy of carrier bags in between two pairs of socks.  Inspired! 

794km done. 

A Hard Day's Rain

Clearwater to Avola

After temperatures that were too hot to cycle over the last few days, we left Clearwater in the rain and the cold. Temperature was around freezing.  We had a 70km target to Avola and a lot of long hills ahead.  Whilst peddling up the hills kept us warm, on the downhill the hailstones hammered into our faces - it was like having dried peas shot at you. 

Our feet became quickly soaked through and we had to stop peddling the bike every half hour and walk.  We have found that lying recumbent whilst pedalling affects circulation to the toes and on some days we can get pins and needles after a while. A short stop and stand quickly remedies this.  However, on this day our feet became like frozen bricks because of the temperature and the wet. So we just walked and pushed the bike for ten minutes to get the circulation going again. 

By the time we reached Avola we were tired and cold and the Log Inn was a more pleasant sight than a Saint Bernard with malt whisky (yes I know it should be brandy but even St. Bernard's have to move with the times). 

Larry, the Harley biking owner, made us most welcome and found us a bed for the night.  His menu choice was burgers.  Nothing else.  Larry's view was if you don't like burgers then don't come to the Log Inn.  When one chap asked for fries he was told 'no fries here - these burgers don't need fries'.  And just in case I felt like complaining about my cold feet, there was a sign at the bar 'no snivelling'. 

So we ordered two hickory smoked beef burgers and they were wonderful.  As Larry says, they are the best in the world and I'm not going to argue.  Besides he was bigger than me and I still had cold feet! Even Susan absolutely loved the burger and she doesn't really like burgers!

In the morning, we had breakfast - bacon and eggs.  Now without doubt this was the best bacon I have ever tasted.  Smoked in the Rocky Mountains, thick cut and absolutely wonderful.  Bacon from Tesco will never be the same again.  I don't even think Tesco should be calling it bacon anymore. This was what bacon should be! 

Route Part 1 - Victoria to Calgary

                    

Route map, with some key places, for the first part of our journey from Victoria to Calgary. 

The X Files - Horses

One of the mysteries of our journey is the attention we get from horses in the fields close to the roads. Without fail they all turn to face us and usually stand staring until we pass.  We don't know if it's the noise or shape of the bike or us on it but each time it makes us laugh (and takes our mind off any gruelling incline). 

Ice Cream & Shorts

First day for Susan in shorts and the first day she hasn't worn her pink merino wool top!  To celebrate we had huge ice creams from the local cafe in Clearwater.

Clearwater

Over the last few days, the weather has been great and, probably, a bit too warm for cycling. Yesterday it was 25c (77 fahrenheit - conversion for the benefit of my mum).  However, Canada is a country of weather extremes so we genuinely still don't rule out snow further down the road. Rain is forecast for the weekend but as I tell everyone in Clearwater, that's our national weather in Scotland. 

From Kamloops we headed north on the Yellowhead Highway 5.  Yes, we know we are on a west to east journey but it is also a holiday and we thought that (superfluous 'that' added for the benefit of Craig C) a detour to Jasper and then back south through the Icefield Parkway would be nice. Well it was a nice idea when we were sitting back home in Edinburgh and now that we're here we are appreciating not only the marvellous scenery but also all the extra peddling up the hills.  Who wants to go through the Rockies the quick way anyway?

According to the GPS that's now 685km from Victoria. 

Kamloops

A long hot day of cycling, including a stop for a minor chain problem, brought us to Kamloops after 82km and 4600ft ascent. That's peddling higher than Ben Nevis though it felt more like the Matterhorn!  Having a rest day in Kamloops as the beer at the Noble Pig is excellent. 

Giving Up On Retirement

We have decided to give up on retirement and go back into employment.  I'm now the Sheriff of Nowhere Town and Susan is the floosie at the local saloon.  

Onto Cache Creek

Leaving Boston Bar we headed up Jackass Mountain, arrived at Lytton and spent overnight in a small cottage at the Totem Hotel. The weather was sunny and the scenery was wonderful.  However, as a result of the warmer weather we are having to carry additional water and 7 litres of water is an extra 7kg weight to haul. 

By the end of Saturday we arrived in Cache Creek, 196km from Hope and 480km from our start in Victoria. We are staying at the Brookside Campsite but it's a bit of a rip off - I haven't seen one former Liverpudlian soap actor yet!

Beyond Hope

At 0830hrs we made an early start (for us) to begin our journey on Highway 1 through Fraser Canyon.  Unfortunately, it was raining and it stayed raining, proper raining, all through the day.  

We eventually ended the day at a small town called Boston Bar and checked into the Mighty Fraser Motel.  The owner of the motel, chef Todd, was an 'underground' chef from Vancouver who bought the property 18 months ago in a dilapidated state.  He said that for the price of a small flat in Vancouver he was able to buy the motel as well as it's associated houses, garage, restaurant etc etc.  He had now renovated the place and was trying to make a business out of it.  This was going to be a real challenge as this highway had gone from being the primary highway north to Kamloops to being more or less a tourist route following the upgrading of the more direct Highway 5 (the Coquihalla Highway) with its 4-6 lanes.  As a result Highway 1 to Kamloops is a museum of motels and restaurants closed over the last 10 years. 

Fortunately, for us The Mighty Fraser Motel now had a great diner called Fat Jacks and the food was first class.  What else would you expect from an underground chef!