The Icefields Parkway

The Icefields Parkway is a 232km route from Jasper to Lake Louise.  It is reckoned to be one of the most scenic roads in the world as it travels through the heart of the Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks World Heritage Site.  It's a vast wilderness of mountians, lakes, ancient glaciers and big, steep, relentless roads.

We started in Jasper and headed south on Highway 93 in sunshine.  We were reasonably fortunate with the weather as the Parkway has extremely variable conditions and it snows every month.  There are only three motels on route and they only open for part of the year.  Campsites are closed until June.  This is not a problem for motorists who usually travel the Parkway in a day or less but it required more planning for us to make sure we had somewhere to sleep and eat. 

The highway is in okay condition though it shows the wear and tear from the ice and snow.  We largely cycle on the hard shoulder though at times this is difficult because of the build up of winter grit.  It's not 'grit' like we have back home.  This is proper 'no nonsense' Canadian 'grit'.  It's actually more like the gravel found in driveways back home. 

Our first stop was at the Sunwapta Lodge and we were lucky because this was their first open day of the season.  It was comfortable and the dining was good. 

As we slowly climbed higher on the second day the landscape changed and the scenery, with the spring snow and ice, was simply stunning.

Higher and higher the road climbed until we reached the Icefield Centre by the Columbia Icefield. By this time we were at 6,650ft elevation.  With all the hard pedalling we could feel there was less oxygen in the air but it wasn't too bad really. 

We checked into the Glacier View Inn which was comfortable although the food was dreadful.  Thankfully, the views of the glacier and our walk over the glacial moraine were great.

The following morning we were awake early and Susan looked out the window.  Ohhhhhh noooooo it's been snowing!!!  Yup she was right and it was time to panic - we just could not stay here another day and eat that food! Worse still, I knew we had a jar of peanut butter, some bananas and cracker biscuits.  It had become one of Susan's pleasures to watch me gag down peanut butter and banana crackers (I'm sorry Denise, Elvis (The King) may have loved this culinary combination but he also loved cheese burgers and I'll stick to them instead!). 

So we waited until mid morning, the temperatures rose and the roads were swept and gritted by the snowploughs.  We set off.  I had three pairs of socks on with a carrier bag in between pairs one and two.  Even Susan, who is often too hot when she is cycling, had to be suitably attired for the morning cycle.  She doesn't have the same problems as me - as the theory explains, I have cold feet and a warm heart.  Susan doesn't appear to have cold feet :)

As we began our cycle, the snow started again and we had to climb even higher to the Sunwapta Pass at 6,700ft.  It wasn't easy.  Then there was a long long downhill where the wind chill was absolutely wicked and the snow turned to rain.  The only saving grace was that we didn't have peanut butter sandwiches for lunch!  It was tuna today :)

When we eventually reached The Crossing Motel we were ready for a beer.  They had a nice bar and the beer was tasty.  Unfortunately, the food was dreadful. Again!

Out last day in the Parkway saw a change in the weather.  Morning mist gave way to sunshine and spectacular views again.  

Eventually, we cycled over Bow Pass at an elevation of 6,800ft.  Maybe a Nazca Quetzal tandem has been higher but this must be in the top three!

We then pushed on the last 40km to Lake Louise.  We continued to stop, even when we were flying on the downhills, to take in the views.  One minor issue on the downhills was the state of the road - there were occasional potholes that have no right to be called potholes.  They were bloody big holes, some 10 inches deep, that could easily take out a bike.

That being said, I know Susan is a thrill seeker so we reached our record speed of 65km on one particular downhill.  That's pretty good I reckon for a tandem with a trailer (mum, don't worry, I pick the right downhills and the bike behaves well).

We could go faster of course.  With the weight we are carrying and the size of these hills, the momentum is so great I genuinely estimate we could hit light speed.  I may even be able to test the theory that we could go so fast we could time travel.  I can't remember whose theory that was.  It was either Einstein or Dr Emmett Lathrop 'Doc' Brown.  

Late afternoon, we reached Lake Louise and checked into the hostel.  It's a nice place and we have met two others who are cycling across Canada.  They have taken a shorter route over the Rockies through the Kicking Horse Pass to get here. They really don't know what they have missed in the Icefield Parkway. 

Footnote: in our opinion, the Icefield Parkway really is one of the exceptional road journeys in the world.  There may be better and we look forward to seeing better but as it stands, through all our travels, this one rates right at the top.  However, we will add a qualifier.  Do it by bicycle!  

1245km so far.