Canadian Roadsigns - Trick Cycling Ahead

The Elusive Moose

Here is a picture of Moose Lake that I managed to take on our cycle from T Jaune to Jasper.

 

It's a nice picture of a frozen Moose Lake and the reason I include it is because it's the only picture of a Moose I am allowed to take.

As we cycled near Jasper we were flying down a hill when Susan shouted 'there's a moose'. Sure enough on the other side of the road stood a huge beast.  Immediately, I started braking. 'No no no, don't stop' shouted Susan. 'He doesn't like his photo taken'.  'What???'  'I read it in a leaflet, he doesn't like his photo taken' she shouted again with more urgency in her voice (note: Susan thinks I'm the kind of idiot who would stop and take a picture of a Moose).  So here we are hurtling down the hill, I want to stop and my wife and advisor of 29 years is urging me not to.  Thankfully, I didn't have time to make the wrong choice because before I knew it we were another 400m down the hill and there was no way I was going to stop and go back up the hill.

Susan and I have since discussed the issue.  It now appears that I am not allowed to stop and take pictures of either mooses or bears.  What a spoilsport. 

Journey to Jasper

We left T Jaune in the early morning sun.  Susan wasn't too happy as we didn't have time to make porridge and she had to make do with a jam roll.  In my mother's day a jam 'piece' was a luxury.  Today, Susan didn't think so. Oh how times have changed. 

We did well climbing the pass at Mount Terry Fox and then headed towards Mount Robson.  Incidentally, Terry Fox is quite an iconic figure in Canada and his name is recognised everywhere. If you have not heard of him then it's time to Google. 

Mount Robson then appeared in the morning sun on the road ahead.  It looked big.

At 12,972 ft it is the highest point in the Canadian Rockies.  Or so they say.  In the last few days I've certainly felt like I've cycled higher than that! 

We stopped at Mount Robson Provincial Park cafe (the only cafe in over 100km) and I met a police Inspector who used to work in Aberdeen. Small world.  

Soon we were on our way again over another hill - trust me the photo doesn't do it justice or show the first 3km.

Later in the day, we topped out at the Yellowhead Pass and passed into Alberta. Bye bye BC, hello AB. Eventually after a 104km (65 miles) day we reached Jasper. Thankfully, we had enough energy left to go for a beer. Now 1011km from Victoria.

 

Show Your Donkey Some Love

We have tried Gatorade, Powerade and Lucozade. We have tried isotonic and probiotic.  We have even tried water from coconuts.  But here is the best energy drink in Canada.  Now show your donkey some love!

Tete Jaune Cache

Following a recommendation by Dorthe and Andre, who manage the Super 8 Motel in Valemount, we decided to make the short cycle to Tete Jeune Cache, a mere 20km away.  They assured us that the setting for the Tete Jaune Lodge was lovely.  Oh they were absolutely right!

The added benefit was the journey was so short there was no need for Susan to make up some bagel concoction (see below for explanation). Result for both of us!

Our room at the Lodge overlooks the mighty Fraser River and surrounded by mountains.  The place is alive with hummingbirds and they are amazing - birds that fly like bees!  You can keep your hotels overlooking sunset beaches -they don't compare to this.  Mind you, I would say that as I hate sand getting in my socks and sandals :)

That evening we had a lovely meal at the restaurant and were joined by Dorthe and Andre who were great company.  Everybody we meet in BC are very friendly.  

The following day, Dan, who is care-taking the Lodge, took us in a drive around the surrounding countryside. Thanks Dan. 

Finally, as a footnote, if you are sharp you will already have noticed that we have been cycling along the Yellowhead Highway and now here we are at Tete Jeaune Cache!  It's not a coincidence.  Tete Jaune was actually named after a fur trader, Pierre Bostonaise, in the 1800's.  He worked for The Hudson Bay Company and was nicknamed 'Tete Jaune' because of his blonde hair.  The Yellowhead Highway was named after him.  If you didn't notice the connection then you're probably still sharp and had just lost interest in reading this blog. 

Valemount

Leaving Blue River we set off for Valemount, the next town along the Yelllowhead Highway.  The scenery was spectacular and, unfortunately, so were the headwinds.  It was a long struggle to pedal up the hills and the wind meant that it was also a long struggle to pedal down the hills.  If we had stopped peddling altogether I think we would have gone backwards all the way to Blue River again.  

In this part of British Columbia there are no shops, services or anything in between the towns.  So we carry food and water for the day.  Today we were having blueberry bagels for lunch.  We carry bagels because they don't go stale.  In fact, bagels are actually stale when you buy them.  I've tried bagels all over the world and even freshly baked ones - they are always stale.  However, Susan made a great effort to make them more interesting by spreading on layers of cream cheese and jam.  They were certainly interesting but that's all I could really say about them without swearing and being unkind :)

Thankfully, the wind lessened mid afternoon and the last 24km was downhill and flat.  We flew into town and booked into the Super 8 Motel.  We then had a 2km walk to get some beer - essential carbohydrate intake.

The following day was another rest day.  We are ahead of schedule as our bookings for the hostel in Jasper and motels along the Icefield Parkway do not start until the 11th May.  Cycling in the Parkway is neither recommended nor generally possible before this time.  It's not uncommon for it to snow even in summer. 

Valemount is a lovely town surrounded by snow capped mountains.  Like most towns in the part of the world they are in transition and coming to terms with the decline of logging, the principal industry and source of employment. 

Blue River

Continuing to head north on the Yellowhead Highway we left Avola and had a short days cycle to Blue River.  No cold feet today courtesy of carrier bags in between two pairs of socks.  Inspired! 

794km done. 

A Hard Day's Rain

Clearwater to Avola

After temperatures that were too hot to cycle over the last few days, we left Clearwater in the rain and the cold. Temperature was around freezing.  We had a 70km target to Avola and a lot of long hills ahead.  Whilst peddling up the hills kept us warm, on the downhill the hailstones hammered into our faces - it was like having dried peas shot at you. 

Our feet became quickly soaked through and we had to stop peddling the bike every half hour and walk.  We have found that lying recumbent whilst pedalling affects circulation to the toes and on some days we can get pins and needles after a while. A short stop and stand quickly remedies this.  However, on this day our feet became like frozen bricks because of the temperature and the wet. So we just walked and pushed the bike for ten minutes to get the circulation going again. 

By the time we reached Avola we were tired and cold and the Log Inn was a more pleasant sight than a Saint Bernard with malt whisky (yes I know it should be brandy but even St. Bernard's have to move with the times). 

Larry, the Harley biking owner, made us most welcome and found us a bed for the night.  His menu choice was burgers.  Nothing else.  Larry's view was if you don't like burgers then don't come to the Log Inn.  When one chap asked for fries he was told 'no fries here - these burgers don't need fries'.  And just in case I felt like complaining about my cold feet, there was a sign at the bar 'no snivelling'. 

So we ordered two hickory smoked beef burgers and they were wonderful.  As Larry says, they are the best in the world and I'm not going to argue.  Besides he was bigger than me and I still had cold feet! Even Susan absolutely loved the burger and she doesn't really like burgers!

In the morning, we had breakfast - bacon and eggs.  Now without doubt this was the best bacon I have ever tasted.  Smoked in the Rocky Mountains, thick cut and absolutely wonderful.  Bacon from Tesco will never be the same again.  I don't even think Tesco should be calling it bacon anymore. This was what bacon should be! 

Route Part 1 - Victoria to Calgary

                    

Route map, with some key places, for the first part of our journey from Victoria to Calgary. 

The X Files - Horses

One of the mysteries of our journey is the attention we get from horses in the fields close to the roads. Without fail they all turn to face us and usually stand staring until we pass.  We don't know if it's the noise or shape of the bike or us on it but each time it makes us laugh (and takes our mind off any gruelling incline). 

Ice Cream & Shorts

First day for Susan in shorts and the first day she hasn't worn her pink merino wool top!  To celebrate we had huge ice creams from the local cafe in Clearwater.

Clearwater

Over the last few days, the weather has been great and, probably, a bit too warm for cycling. Yesterday it was 25c (77 fahrenheit - conversion for the benefit of my mum).  However, Canada is a country of weather extremes so we genuinely still don't rule out snow further down the road. Rain is forecast for the weekend but as I tell everyone in Clearwater, that's our national weather in Scotland. 

From Kamloops we headed north on the Yellowhead Highway 5.  Yes, we know we are on a west to east journey but it is also a holiday and we thought that (superfluous 'that' added for the benefit of Craig C) a detour to Jasper and then back south through the Icefield Parkway would be nice. Well it was a nice idea when we were sitting back home in Edinburgh and now that we're here we are appreciating not only the marvellous scenery but also all the extra peddling up the hills.  Who wants to go through the Rockies the quick way anyway?

According to the GPS that's now 685km from Victoria.